Sewing Summer Shorts
An Elastic Waist Short Pattern Comparison
I dedicated the past month to sewing a bunch of shorts! As soon as the 80° days hit, I identified it as the most pressing gap in my wardrobe and got to planning. With some well-timed pattern tests, I was off to the races and filling my wardrobe.
Avenue Shorts - Sydney Graham
First, the Avenue Shorts! This pattern hasn’t been released yet (poor Sydney’s studio was flooded, and so the release has been delayed), but it is worth the wait! I really, really like these shorts. I made four pairs!
The Facts
Inseam: 3.9’’
Hip Size Range: 32.5’’-66’’
Elastic Width: 1’’
My Size: 6 (true to my hip measurement)
Details: inseam pockets, side stripes, back pockets, split hem
Fabric:
Pair 1 - Red (9oz bull denim)
Pair 2 - Brown (6oz cotton twill)
Pair 3 - Purple (4oz nylon taslan)
Pair 4 - Yellow (6oz cotton twill)
I generally started this shorts journey wanting to make heavier-weight shorts that felt durable and comfortable for outdoor activity. So, I started with a scrap of bull denim that is slightly over the recommended fabric weight for the pattern. This pair turned out nicely, but they are slightly too heavy of a weight for the pattern. If I was going to make another pair at this weight, I would use 1.5’’ elastic and adjust the pattern to match.
So for the second pair, I went down to 6oz twill, which I think is the perfect weight and structure for these shorts. I also adjusted my side stripe method, just cutting strips on the grain of quilting cotton (not on the bias). Quilting cotton ended up being perfect for the stripes because you can use pretty much any color! This is probably my most worn pair so far—I could definitely see myself making another pair with a neutral base and bold stripes.
The third pair is tied for my favorite—made of nylon taslan (both base and stripe). I used this fabric for the first time earlier this year to sew Helios Trousers and immediately fell in love. It’s perfect for being active (gardening, hiking, exercise, etc), and feels very cool for a handmade garment.
Finally, I made a second twill pair in yellow. This is probably my least favorite pair, but only because it’s the same color as my high school gym shorts, and so far I can’t shake the association. But, they’re the perfect weight, and I do love wearing yellow!
All four pairs that I made fall into the “sporty” category, both aesthetically and for use because that’s what my lifestyle dictates. But, I could definitely see myself making another pair with a cotton/linen blend or a print (and omitting the side stripes) that feels a little less casual. These are extremely comfortable for lounging or activity, the inseam is the perfect length for me, and you can get a wide range of results. I made no fit adjustments. Highly recommend!
Bobbi Shorts (& then Pants) - Beaton Studio
The Facts
Inseam: 5.25’’
Hip Size Range: 33’’-60’’
Elastic Width: 2’’
My Size: Small
My Details: no adjustments, inseam pockets, back pocket
Fabric:
Pair 1: Green (midweight cotton twill)
Pair 2: Purple (5oz cotton washed sheeting)
Pants: Blue (5 oz cotton/linen blend)
My first pair of Bobbi shorts gave me some trouble. I liked them (and I love the construction), but unfortunately the elastic stretched out while I topstitched, so they ended up too big. I also felt like the fabric was too thick—it made the longer inseam feel heavy. But, I decided to sew some darts into the back waistband, and they fit better. It’s not perfect, but it does work!
And, I liked the pattern! So, I decided to make the second pair. With a lighter weight fabric and careful topstitching, this pair was definitely a success! I love the texture of a washed fabric
I love the wider waistband with lots of stitching, the subtle shaping, and a longer inseam that doesn’t feel frumpy.
I liked this pair so much that I decided to make the pants while I had the pattern out. I like the shorts, but I LOVE the pants. They are the perfect casual and stylish shape, and I will make more with the same fabric (in new colors) in the fall! Perfect elastic-waist high-rise barrel pants!
Sierra Shorts - Road Trip Pattern Co.
The Facts
Inseam: 5’’
Hip Size Range: 35’’-66’’
Elastic Width: 1.5’’
My Size: **See below
Details: Shorts View B, back pocket, inseam pockets, gusset
Fabric:
Pair 1 - Brown (6oz cotton twill)
Pair 2 - Green (9.6oz cotton canvas)
On a similar timeframe as the Avenues, I signed up to pattern test the Sierra Shorts! I was excited to try various short shapes, and wasn’t sure what I would really be looking for in a pattern.
I originally made a size 6 based on my measurements, and I chose the fabric weight I liked from the Avenue pattern. But, as is a risk when pattern testing, that size ended up being a bit too tight. The size chart changed for the final pattern, incorporating more ease in the hips. So, while these don’t work for active wear, I did really like the look of the front seams (which you can’t really see in the below photo). Though they have a longer inseam than the Avenues, they actually feel quite a bit shorter (I think because they have a lower rise).
So, I decided to make a second pair in canvas. I didn’t want to reprint the pattern, so I just adjusted the pattern pieces to add ease to the hips, making what I believe is about a size 10 in the final pattern size chart. The fabric I used is over the recommended weight, but I trusted my vision for the color and material.
I really like the look of these shorts. Though they have more room in the hips, they are still relatively tight around my thighs, and I’ve noticed that the lower rise provides significantly less coverage in the back when I’m moving or bending. So, they’re not a good choice for me when I’m being active (whether that’s hiking or gardening), but I think they they’re cute—I’d reach for them when going out for a picnic or other such things. The construction method also feels very professional!
In Summary
I am really happy I tried three distinct short styles! I went into this sort of willy-nilly, knowing I needed shorts and excited to have been selected for these pattern tests. I felt like this gave me a much better understanding of what I like in a short, and I have distinct shapes to style with.
The Avenues are a real wardrobe workhorse—you can really diversify the look and they are comfy in every iteration. The Bobbi’s are also a gem (especially in pant form) and I love having a longer option that don’t feel like bermudas.
Next up, I am sewing some non-elastic shorts: The Dern Shorts by Daughter Judy, and perhaps the Georgia Trousers by Vivian Shao Chen.
In a far future when I want to revisit shorts, I also intend to make some additional nylon pairs: Studio &/or Helios shorts by Indigo Indigo, and for hiking, the DIAS shorts.
Hope this helps your summer wardrobe! Have a favorite short pattern? Let me know!
I am SOO excited to make the Avenue shorts! Yours look great.
This is exactly the kind of shorts pattern comparison I needed! So intrigued by that nylon fabric! Where did you source it?